First, here's a couple of photos of what you'll get, the Parrot box and its included harnesses - relay box harness on the left, power harness on the right (I didn't include the wired controller and microphone):
This is the QCGM-4 GM adapter harness. Note the orphan 12V accessory power connector on the far left (you may be discarding this later - see below):
The power harness from the Parrot kit has a number of redundant loopback wires that are not needed and will just take up additional space. You can just leave these in if you wish and skip the next 3 photos/steps, OR remove them to save space as I did. To remove them, start on the grey female-pin plug. Just pop out all the pins/wires EXCEPT the red and black (power and ground) wires at the top:
Then with the male pin connector, ONLY pop out the red and black wires/pins (arrowed) and cut off the thicker orange wire that goes to the fuseholder (red line). Discard the remaining male-pin connector and wires. Then in the QCGM-4 harness, pull out the black power connector that just has the single red wire and discard it too.
Now use heatshrink or tape to insulate the dangling red and black pins and solder/attach an extension wire and fusetap (or similar) to the cut orange wire so it will reach a switched-12V point/fuse in the BCM. This is what you'll be left with (rather than the mass on the right in the first photo above):
OK, now on to the install proper...
Plug together the Parrot relay box, power and QCGM-4 harnesses together. There's only one way that all these plugs will fit. You'll be left with the 4 radio-connector plugs free, and also the small plugs that go to the blue Parrot box. Everthing else should be plugged together - sorry no photos.
I put the Parrot box up under the steering wheel in the driver footwell. This was so the (short) cable for the wired controller could reach up to the driver's side A-pillar. To get access there, first lever out the left hand two plastic push-plugs shown arrowed. Be gentle or they'll break off:
Then you can gently move the OBD connector cover strip down/back out of the way to get access to the left 7mm hex-head screw for the plastic knee panel. Remove this and also the right one (arrowed). Then pull the panel toward you to release the clips at the top and set aside. BE CAREFUL the metal knee plate under the panel has VERY sharp edges.
Remove the dash boomerang and the radio head unit. I will not detail how to do this as this has been shown many times before. For example:
http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f61/how-aftermarket-headunit-replacement-15707/Once the radio is removed, you'll need to feed the radio-connectors part of the harness down below the air-vents and around back to come out where the original radio connectors poke out:
Plug the factory radio connectors into the corresponding sockets in the harness, and poke them back into the hole behind the radio, leaving just the harness radio plugs sticking out. Wrap the wires for small signal and power connectors to the blue Parrot box in electrical tape to protect from rubbing, and then feed them back and to the left to the driver footwell area. Similarly feed the orange 12V switched/accessory/ignition power wire back and to the right toward the BCM in the passenger footwell.
I then wrapped the relay box and harness interconnect plugs in foam to avoid any rattling - but this is optional:
Push all the rest of the harness and relay box back behind the radio so it's all nicely tucked away (relay box arrowed):
Pull off the panel below the driver's A-pillar (between the door and the dash) and feed the wired controller and microphone cable to the driver footwell area. Plug all of these cables into the blue Parrot box (sorry about the blurry photo):
Now you can stuff the Parrot box up in on top of the metal knee plate, all the way back so it rests on the fiber sound insulation. I loosened the four 10mm bolts to drop the plate down a little for access. Again be careful of the sharp edges - you can see I put a strip of black door-edge-guard on the front edge to save me slitting my wrists! (Maybe electrical tape would be an alternative):
This is where I put the controller and microphone temporarily. I'll live with it a while and test different mic placements before I mount them permanently:
OK, now put the radio back in and plug in the harness connectors, connect the switched power wire to a switched source in the BCM and test!
If it works, you're all set. Replace the dash and knee panels and off you go.
Good luck!
